FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
DATSUN Z FENDER AND BODY KITS
www.KitCarZ.com
All information presented on this website is copyright
©2008, Reaction Research, Inc.
No component of this website may be reproduced in any form without express
written permission.
This information is presented as a service only. Great
care is taken to provide the best
information possible. However, no warranty of expertise or accuracy is expressed
or implied.
This FAQ section is a work in progress. Bear with me over
the next few weeks as I flesh it out! Select "View>Refresh" to
make sure you have the most recent version cached.
The list is organized in a semi-logical fashion. Please read
through all sections, and if you can't immediately find something you need,
try "Control-F." If that doesn't lead you to an answer, my contact
information is at the bottom of the list.
Referenced in some sections there is a separate page with
more detail, philosophy, and humor. Click on the highlighted "more"
where indicated to go to that page.
Types
of Kits
Full Body Kits are just that: They cover or
replace all of the existing Z or ZX body, with the exception of the windshield
and windshield frame.
If you are building a kit that requires removal of the roof
of the car, reinforcing of the unibody chassis is recommended.
Fender Kits consist of the air dam, front fenders,
rear quarters, and a rear spoiler. The Subtle Z kit includes the hood,
which is available as an upgrade on both the 940Z and 280YZ
kits. The rear spoiler can be deleted from all kits for $150 credit.
The Subtle Z was designed primarily as a street kit,
with the front fenders bolting on in place of the stock fenders. They can
be attached with Dzuz fasteners for racing application. The Subtle Z is 1.5
inches wider than stock, on all four corners.
The 940Z and 280YZ are designed as racing kits,
with the front fenders having smaller returns and being designed to Dzuz on.
However, they can be bolted on with slight modification. The 940Z kit is about
2 inches wider than stock on all four corners, while the 280YZ adds about
3 inches on either side at both front and rear.
Quality Note: The molds for the 940Z and
the 280YZ kit are showing their age. Therefore, the parts will not be as pretty
out of the box as those for the Subtle Z. The gelcoat will have a more "flat"
appearance and there may be small imperfections. However, you can be assured
that the quality of the lamination is top notch, and your parts will have
as high a strength-to-weight ratio as any you can by for a comparable price.
The steps required to mount, sand, prime, and paint these parts are exactly
the same as if they were shiny! I will build new molds one of these days,
but for the moment these parts are a good value and I will try to continue
keeping the cost down.
All three fender kits utilize rear quarters that are designed
to attach via either Dzuz fasteners or bonding over the existing rear quarters.
The stock panels must be trimmed out to provide room for the larger wheels
and tires required.
Any parts from these kits can be supplied separately. If
you want to retain your stock front end, but need large rear quarters to cover
monster drag slicks on your V8 Z, you can buy the rear quarters separately.
Conversely, if you have already modified your rears and want
to upgrade the fronts, you can purchase separately any of our front fenders.
Please note, however, that because of the extra width you will need to either
purchase a matching air dam, or modify the one you are planning to use.
Installation of a fender kit is mostly bolt-on in the front.
In the back, there are two ways to do it. Most racers remove most of the quarter
panel (technically the "fender" is the front, the rear is part of
the unibody and is called a "quarter panel") and attach with Dzus
quarter-turn fasteners for easy removal and installation. Since it is part
of the structure, most racers tie everything back together with tubes connected
to the roll cage.
For street use most customers simply trim out the quarter
panel to a profile that matches the size of the height of the wheel. So you
make a cut at the lip edge of the quarter panel to separate it from the wheel
well. Then cut out from the outer panel a crescent moon shape that peaks about
3 inches above the lip. The inner panel can then be slotted and the tabs bent
up to be re-attached for structural integrity.
Roadster Kits consist of a header
cap for the top of the windshield, a rear deck, and a trunk lid. We are not
currently offering convertible tops for the kits because we are redesigning
the previous tops. However, there is a removeable hardtop available for the
Z Spyder.
<Back to index
Mix and Match Parts from Various Kits
You can mix and match parts from the various kits I offer
at no extra cost. For example, if you like the width of the 280YZ rear flares
but want only a slight increase in width at the front, you can use the Subtle
Z front fenders. The Subtle hood will work with any of the kits (except the
complete rebody kits), but is not required. This goes for the Subtle rear
spoiler, as well.
I have also sold VR and Daytona ZX rear tubs to customers
who wanted to retain the stock front end and vice versa. This is not as straight-forward,
as the VR and Daytona parts are intended to work with the extra width provided
by the door skins. However, this can be overcome with a little extra effort.
Generally, however, the fender kits are designed to work
with the appropriate air dam. You can mix and match the air dams, or even
use bumper caps like those from Motorsport. Dan
Juday and Ron Best did that with great
success. Just realize that you are going to have to do a little fiberglass
work in order to make the pieces match up.
Ease of Installation
How easy is the VR kit to build? That's
a $64,000 question. The answer depends upon your motivation, your skill, and
the tools and assistance available to you.
For an unbiased look at installation effort, check out Teo
Leonard's documentation of his build, which is ongoing. I like to say that
it's about halfway between a Fiero-based kit (that is, one that doesn't require
a wheelbase stretch) and a ground-up car like a Cobra. Your donor is already
sitting on it's own suspension, and (if you don't do a swap) already has the
drive train and wiring in place. If you can resist rebuilding every part of
the donor car (which is tempting) you can have it together and ready for paint
prep in 100 to 150 man-hours.
The customers who have built the VR range from those who
have never turned a wrench before, but enjoy learning the skills as they go
along, to those who are extremely experienced. I've seen very nice cars built
by both extremes.
The Z is a uni-body car, so the installation process involves
removing the roof, reinforcing the chassis, removing and replacing front-end
components (bolt-on), trimming out the rear wheel wells and bonding on the
rear tub. Obviously, there is a lot of smaller work, such as bolting on door
mirrors, license plate, etc.
I strongly recommend that you get my Velo
Rossa Installation Manual, the Jags That Run Z
V8 book, the Haynes Z service book, and read them thoroughly. Then if
you have more questions about the installation, email me and we'll clear them
up before you begin.
The Daytona is similar to the VR in the
way it installs.
The other kits I sell are to varying degrees easier than
the VR and Daytona. Front-end components are all bolt-on or (in the case of
racing applications) fastened with Dzus fasteners. Rear components are all
bond-on, but can also be attached with Dzuz fasteners for racing.
The Z Spyder and ZX Spyder involve cutting
off the roof (obviously), and like with the VR and Daytona reinforcing is
always recommended when you remove the roof.
The 940Z, 280YZ, and Subtle Z don't require
removing the roof (though you can use parts from these kits on the Z Spyder),
so the installation is more simple. You also do not have to reinforce the
donor car, but there will be a little trimming in the rear wheel well area
to allow clearance for the larger wheels and tires you will want to use with
these kits. If you (or your body shop) have installed fender flares before,
any of these three kits should be pretty straight-forward for you.
I just published a free online
fender kit installation guide that explains the process in more detail.
<Back to index
Donor Cars
Our kits and body parts are designed to fit specific donor
cars. There are two ranges of donors: First Generation Zs include 1970-1978,
240, 260, or 280Z. Kits designed for the First Generation Z will fit any car
in that range (except 2+2, see below). Second Generation cars are the 280ZXs
from 1979-1983. Kits designed for the 280ZX will fit any car in that range
(again, 2+2 cars are the exception).
Kits designed for First Gen cars will not directly fit the
other. You can modify the kits to fit, but you may find the labor and/or expense
required is more than that for simply finding the correct donor. Yes the cars
are very close in all dimensions, but you can't make a Z fender or door fit
a ZX without a lot of work. The same goes for the fiberglass parts.
| This
matrix describes the kits that are available to fit your car, or conversely
the year of donor you need to fit a particular kit. Click in the cells
for more information on each kit. |
| |
|
| Donor
Car, Years |
Full
Body Kits |
Fender
Kits and Panels |
Roadster
Kits |
| 240,
260, 280 Z, 1970-1978 |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
| 280
ZX, 1979-1983 |
|
Nothing
yet |
|
| 300ZX,
1983-up |
Nothing
yet |
Nothing
yet |
Nothing
yet |
Why not make a kit for the Third Generation 300ZX (or a Velo
Rossa kit for the 280ZX)? Several reasons: 1) It is tremendously expensive
to reprototype and retool a kit for a new donor platform. The Velo Rossa cost
about $15,000 to prototype (and I actually had an old Alpha GTO kit to start
with, which saved a lot of expense) and another $15,000 to make the molds.
That was more than ten years ago so it would undoubtedly cost more today.
2) The 300ZX is a much more complicated vehicle and therefore much more difficult
to modify for performance 3) It is not very well supported in the aftermarket...that
is you don't have the same wide selection of performance parts and other modifications.
None of my kits are designed to fit directly on any of the
2+2 cars. I have sold a few kits to folks who have adapted them for such vehicles,
and if that is your desire I can provide you with information on the process.
However, doing such an installation is warranted only if you have sufficient
time to devote to it and/or you have some special need for the extra room.
It is a fair amount of additional work compared to just finding a 2-seat donor.
The modifications required include lengthening the rear tub
between the back of the door and the rear wheels, and lengthening the door
skins. The front-end components should bolt on without modification.
However, in addition to the modifications required, the 2+2
cars were heavier and the wheelbase was longer. Both of these features will
degrade performance.
Within the listed ranges there are minor differences. In
the first generation Z, the 75-78 280 Z cars are slightly beefier in structure,
have better drivability and reliability with fuel injection instead of carbs,
and are by definition newer with fewer miles on the clock.
Some of the second generation cars (280 ZX) had luxury options
like power windows and locks, and some were available with turborcharged engines...a
potent option worth seeking. All were structurally similar.
Rust? We don't worry much about it in Arizona and I occasionally
have a donor car or two in the "stable." If I don't have one that
fits your needs, I can assist you with finding a local donor car as well as
shipping it to your area. However, please recognize that the process of searching
for a good donor requires a fair amount of work and a lot of knowledge. I
don't mind helping if you don't mind compensating me fairly for my time and
my experience (gained from years of brain damage:). I can assure you it will
be worth the cost! Also, please be aware that I cannot begin searching until
you are serious enough about your project to warrant a deposit.
Title transfers can be done here, which will give you an
Arizona title in your name. That will make transporting the car, and eventually
registering it in your home state easier.
If this is not an option for you, then make sure you evaluate
your prospective donor car thoroughly for rust and collision damage. A little
rust in the floor pans is usually not a big problem and can be repaired pretty
easily. However, it also usually indicates that there is rust in other spots
you won't see until you have stripped the car. By then it's too late to get
your money back from the seller!
The stiffening “frame rails” underneath floor
pans are relatively important. They are not really part of a frame, but just
sheet metal boxes. These tend to get beat up pretty badly by rocks and grease
monkeys that try to jack the car up there, but “dented” is not
nearly as bad as “rusted.”
The area under the battery is almost always going to have
some rust, but you don’t want big holes or crumbly cancer. The “frame
rails” on either side of the engine bay should be free of buckling that
would indicate collision damage…though some models are shaped in a non-linear
fashion that may look suspicious to the untrained eye. Just make sure they
look the same and opposite. That is if one looks like it is bent inward the
other should be bent inward, too. Not bent the same direction which might
indicate the car T-boned another, moving car.
Front fenders and other front sheet metal are not important.
However, the inner wheel wells are part of the unibody and should be as good
as possible. The bracket where the tension-compression rod attaches to the
frame should be intact.
If you live in the rust belt, you may find that the availability
of good donors is so poor and the cost of repairing the bad ones so high that
you will want to make a trip out to Sunny Arizona to have us help you find
a good donor!
Consult the Velo Rossa installation manual for more information
on rust inspection.
Will any of these kits fit Right Hand Drive donor
cars? YES! They will all fit RHD cars. Only the Velo Rossa needs
very slight modification at the base of the windshield to accommodate the
wipers, which are reversed on the RHD cars.
<Back to index
Turnkey Cars
I am not accepting orders for turnkey cars at the moment.With
all the confusion and turmoil of 2002, having sold the business and now having
taken it back, it's all I can do to rebuild the business and fulfill the orders
I continue to receive.
However, I will discuss a turnkey or partial assembly, provided
you are serious about it (i.e., you have the money and are recognize that
my time and experience are worth that money).
No, I won't build you a car for the same price as the one
you saw on eBay. I also won't fix that one for you any cheaper when you get
it and find out it's worth about half what you paid for it! Turnkey work is
very serious, time consuming, and logistically very challenging, all of which
are exaggerated when the customer and builder are geographically separated.
<Back to index
Title, Registration, and Insurance
In many states if you are starting with an out of state title,
the motor vehicle folks will want to see the car and verify the Vehicle Identification
Number before issuing a new title. Therefore, you can title and register your
car as a Datsun if you do the title transfer before you begin the conversion
process. If you drag or drive your car down there with a different body on
it, you will likely get a Specially Constructed Vehicle (that's what they
call them in Arizona, your jurisdiction may be different) title.
An SCV title can actually be helpful. For example, if you
get pulled over by the constabulary you will not have to explain why your
Italian sports car is registered as a Datsun! Usually SCV titles reflect both
the donor car and what it's supposed to resemble, e.g., 1962 F****ri GTO/Datsun
280Z. However, it is possible to have them list only the first part. Just
be careful about false advertising when you sell the car!
Insurance companies are more concerned about the running
gear of the car and what it will cost to fix (if you want collision coverage
as opposed to just liability). Therefore, insuring as a Datsun (provided you
have not done an engine swap) will give them an accurate idea of the performance
capability of the car, which in turn tells them how much of a risk it is to
other peoples' property!
For collision coverage (i.e., fix YOUR car if you damage
it), the insurance company wants to know what it's worth and what it will
cost to fix. Insuring it as a Datsun is a sure fire way to have the insurance
company total it with anything more than about $1000 worth of coverage. Many
companies will do a "stated value" policy. This requires either
documentation of build cost, or appraisal of value, or both. Your premiums
will be proportional to this value.
<Back to index
Reinforcing
The Z is a unibody car. That is to say, the body is the structure,
without a separate frame underneath. The roof is part of that structure. If
you choose one of our roadster conversions or topless rebody kits, you need
to reinforce the chassis.
I sell a clean, all-in-the-cockpit reinforcing kit. This
is a minimum level kit and if you driving style or engine power dictates,
you will want to consider more extensive reinforcing.
Should you reinforce before or after removing the roof? I
find it easier to do afterward, because it is a lot easier to move around
inside the car without the roof in the way. Yes, the car may sag a little
when you remove the roof. This is the main reason most folks want to reinforce
before roof removal. However, if you remove the roof first it is very easy
to put a floor jack under the pan to "un-sag" the car while you
weld in the reinforcing.
One caveat, though: Particularly in the area around the top
of the windshield, there seems to be some residual high-gravity effect that
will attract your scalp to the rough edges where you removed the roof. I'd
recommed you at least rough-install the header cap after removing the roof
and before beginning work inside the car. Voice of experience...too many times
to count.
Consult the Velo Rossa installation manual for more reinforcing
information.
<Back to index
Convertible Tops
The Velo Rossa was designed to be roadster, that is with
no top. However, I and others have fitted tops to Velo Rossas. "One of
these days" I hope to have time to design a really nice top for the VR.
In the meantime, I am offering a removeable hardtop shell that you can finish
yourself with seals, latches, and rear window. I'm selling the shells for
my cost as a service to the buyers who need them.
There have been VR customers who have adapted TR7 tops, MGB
tops and some others. However, it's not as straightforward as it might seem.
Not only does the header bow have to be reconfigured to meet the sweeping
curve of the top of the Z windshield, the opening around the window of the
Z has to be different.
I can help out with other options if you really need a top
and that is an obstacle to building a kit. Contact me for the latest information.
<Back to index
Building a Hardtop VR
If you prefer the coupe look of the original GTO, are located
in a climate that favors hardtop cars, or you just don't like convertibles,
I can supply the kit tailored so that you can install it without removing
the roof. I have a line scribed in the mold where I terminate the layup for
this purpose. With this termination, the rear tub drops down over the Datsun
roof and rests on the rear quarters. Slight trimming is required for best
fit, but it is much easier to trim to exact fit than have to add material.
You will have to do a little hand fabrication around the
rear of the hatch opening, and around the quarter windows. The original GTO
did not have quarter windows, and many of the early GTO replica kits incorporated
a vertical extension of the tub to cover the Datsun window. Many builders
chose instead to remove the quarter window and fabricate a metal panel to
be welded in place. My preference (and the reason Datsun designed the quarter
window) is to leave it open for visibility. It's a small area, but makes a
big difference. Without it, I feel claustrophobic.
If, like me, you want to retain the quarter window, you will
have to do a little bit of hand fabrication with foam and fiberglass to create
the radius from the top of the quarter panel area into the quarter window
well. I have a handful of builders who have done this, and can supply photos
and additional information for clarification if need be.
<Back to index
Engine Upgrades and Swaps
I recommend doing your body installation before you do any
engine swapping. Since the finished car will be lighter than the donor you
started with, I think you will find that the performance of the car will improve
significantly. Plus, the inline 6 engine revs very nicely like a sports car
should, and with the right exhaust it sounds like it should, too.
However, if you get that far and decide that it's just not
enough, having already done the body conversion will still be beneficial.
Particularly with complete body kits, having the front end sheet metal out
of your way makes the engine swap a lot easier. In the case of the Velo Rossa,
the one-piece bonnet is extremely easy to remove and get out of your way for
engine work.
There is a lot of knowledge and there are a lot of differing
opinions in the Z community in the area of engine work. Avail yourself of
the information you can find at www.hybridz.org,
www.zdriver.com, www.zcar.com,
etc.
Engine upgrades can include anything from readily available
headers and cams, to head swapping and complete engine rebuilds. Rebello has
an excellent engine rebuild program. They are expensive, but numerous racing
titles have proven their worth.
Engine swaps with other Datsun models are done frequently.
One of the more straightforward is substituting a turbocharged engine for
a normally aspirated model. The first and second generation Z engines are
physically almost identical so a swap is not particulary challenging. Other
Z enthusiasts have substituted extremely high performance four cylinder engines
for both gain in power and reduction in weight. Third (1984-1989, single overhead
cam) and fourth generation (1989-1996 dual overhead cam) Z V6 engines make
good swaps. I have even seen Infinity aluminum V8 engines installed with very
clean results.
The small-block Chevy is the most common engine swap for
the Datsun. It fits very nicely in the engine bay, provides a tremendous increase
in torque, and parts are readily available. It typically adds a small amount
of weight to the car and requires attention to the fore-and-aft position to
minimize disturbing the balance of the car by making it nose heavy. I recommend
the Jags that Run book for the most
complete information on doing this swap.
I personally like the look of the 4.3 Vortech V6. It’s the
same bore and stroke a small-block, but lighter even than the Z engine. Very
compact and good rearward position of center of mass.
There have been a few Z guys who have used the 3.8 liter,
narrow angle V6 Buick Grand National turbo engine.
Small-block Ford engines have also been used. There are some
advantages including a distributor position which allows the engine to sit
farther aft in the engine bay, lighter weight, etc. However, Ford parts are
typically a little more expensive and fewer of these swaps have been done.
Therefore the knowledge base is not as strong as with the Chevy. Regardless
of all that, there are a few diehard Ford guys who swear by that engine for
transplanting into the Z.
I have also seen Mazda rotary engines installed in the Datsun.
The Mazda is a strange little beast of a motor. It is available in turbocharged
versions, revs very smoothly to high rpm, makes a wicked sound, and is extremely
compact and light. Parts and knowledge are not as readily available as with
some of the other engine swaps. However, with proper care and feeding (good
oil and good gas) they last a LONG time. In the Mazda spec racing series engines
can last several seasons without a rebuild.
Emissions restrictions are a sticky point on engine
swaps. Requirements vary from location to location, however, the most restrictive
is in California. In essense, the year of the car from which your engine was
obtained will dictate the emissions standards you have to meet. Therefore,
many engine swappers get older engines (pre-67 as I recall) from the wreckyards.
However, you need to check requirements in your state and county before you
do a swap. I strongly suggest that you review the extensive information to
be found at www.HybridZ.com and in the
Jags that Run V8 Z book that I sell.
I would strongly recommend AGAINST a Jag motor. There have
been a lot of guys who've made a lot of money doing small block Chevy conversions
on Jags. There are good reasons for that! 'Nuff said.
<Back to index
Fiberglass Specifications
I use two methods of fiberglass production: Spray
lamination ("chopper gun" or "slobber gun" as
one of my customers humorously calls it) and hand lamination.
All prices listed on this website are for spray lamination. Hand lamination
is about 15% more expensive.
"What's the difference?" Spray lamination is a
process whereby long, continuous strands of fiber, or "tow," are
fed through a spray gun that chops the strands into two- or three-inch long
pieces, wets them with resin and catalyst, and blows them onto the surface
of the mold. It is a bit like spray painting.
Chopper gun production can actually result in pretty nice
parts. The quality is highly dependent upon the experience of the operator
and the care with which he handles the gun. The key is controlling resin-to-fiber
ratio and uniformity of thickness (i.e., not holding the gun over some areas
longer than others).
Hand lamination starts with dry fabric. It can be woven or
non-woven. Woven fabric looks just like cloth but tends to be thinner. Non-woven
fabric looks like spray laminated fiberglass, but is very consistent in its
thickness. The laminator (or "fiberglass guy") cuts the fabric off
a roll, wets it with resin (which he has mixed with catalyst in a bucket),
and lays it into the mold by hand.
Regardless of how the fiber and resin get into the mold (by
gun or by hand), the laminator rolls the material out by hand, forcing out
air bubbles and increasing the strength of the final part.
Generally, hand-laminated parts are going to be slightly
denser and stronger than a chopped part of equivalent weight (or, conversely
they can be made ligher for an equivalent strength). This is more important
as you get into thinner parts, like for racing applications.
I strongly recommend hand lamination for all parts, but especially
for parts that will be bolted onto your car, for example front fenders (as
opposed to rear quarter panels which are bonded on). I also recommend hand
lamination for any parts that are installed in such a way that the underside
may be seen, for example your hood.
I prefer white gel coat, but can do other colors for small
additional cost. I think it was $200 extra last time I did a color change,
and that's just the cost difference of the gel coat.
White gel coat also makes your new parts look more finished
right out of the box. That way, there's more "gee whiz" when people see it
in the garage. It also makes it more tolerable to the spouse when he or she
has to park his or her car in the driveway because your project is in the
garage.
When you get ready to paint, you will find that best results
come from contrasting subsequent layers. It's easier to see what you've covered,
and when you sand back down into the previous layer. For example, I like camel
colored primer on top of the white gel coat. Then if you do red paint over
that you can see the coverage. Plus, a lot of the colors-especially red-that
people like to use on these cars are somewhat translucent. Therefore, the
final color will be brightest with lighter layers beneath. Painter's nightmare
would be gray gel coat, gray primer, and gray paint.
Click HERE for more
info on fiberglass, carbon fiber, etc.>
<Back to index
Demo cars, Shop visits
When I sold the business in 2002, I sold separately my shop
building because I didn't think I would need it any longer. Now that I have
the business back I am operating out of my vendors' facilities temporarily
while I put together a new facility.
So, I don't have a fancy showroom or fabrication shop where
I can give you a dog and pony show. Nor do I have any complete cars on hand
in which I can take you for a test drive. The positive side of both is that
my overhead is now lower and I can continue to offer the same low prices I've
had for the last ten years!
However, if you are serious about purchasing a kit (i.e.,
you have the money and are willing to spend it, etc.) and need to see one
to help you make that decision, I can make arrangements to meet with you and
help you with those assessments. PLEASE, contact me well before you are driving
into the Phoenix city limits. I am EXTREMELY busy, and I travel a lot on business.
So, if you contact me well in advance of your visit I will
be more likely to be able to meet with you. I don't mind if you wait until
the last minute as long as you understand when I tell you I already have 14
hours of work scheduled that day! And if your plans change after I have already
altered mine to meet with you, please do me the courtesy of letting me know
as soon as possible. The only thing worse than having someone "drop in"
without prior notice, or rearranging my already impossible schedule for someone
who doesn't show up, is a noshow who doesn't even bother to let me know s/he
is not coming!.
There is a local (Phoenix) builder who has his car for sale
and who has shown it to prospective purchasers in the past. There are also
many builders across the country who don't mind sharing their time with serious
prospective purchasers. Please see the next section about that.
<Back to index
Contacting Builders
I am very careful to safeguard my customer’s contact info
because of bad experience. I have found that if I’m too liberal with that
information, they get deluged with annoyance requests for information from
people who are not really serious about purchasing anything. That is one reason
I ask you to help me gauge how serious you are about purchasing.
If you have specific questions about a given kit and you
have not found the answers here or in the installation manual, tell me what
information that you need and I will be happy to check my archives. If you
have seen a customer's car in one of my galleries and have specific questions,
I may have archived information on it. As a last resort I will forward the
questions to the owner.
If you are ready to purchase, i.e., you have the money and
are ready to write the check, and you would like to see a car before you place
your order, I will try to accommodate. I will check to see if I have a customer
in your area and get their permission to put you in touch with them.
I not trying to be deceptive or stubborn, but I am a BIG
believer in courtesy AND privacy. My customers have shown great trust in me
when they purchased their kits and/or parts. I very much value--and don’t
want to violate--that trust. I’m sure you will appreciate this policy when/if
you become a customer, because I will afford you the same courtesy.
<Back to index
Dealer Programs and Sponsorships
If you build and sell cars for a living, or even as a serious
hobby, I am happy to talk to you about building one of mine. Keep in mind
that the idea behind a dealer program is for the transaction to be profitable
for both of us. Therefore, I want to be able to sell more kits with less time
involved.
If you are a hobbyiest and want to save some money, I can
discuss with you "manufacturer's representative" status, through
which you will enjoy significant tax benefits, and commissions for showing
your car to other prospective purchasers.
However, if you only want one kit you may want to consider
getting together with another prospective customer in your area and ordering
both kits together. The savings in crating and shipping can be substantial!
See Ganging Customer Shipments, below, for more information.
These caveats and recommendations also apply to sponsorships.
My involvement in sponsorships has been very limited in the past. At the present
time, with all the turmoil of the past year, the cash flow of the business
does not permit me to be too cavalier with the revenue. Therefore, I would
be glad to review sponsorship proposal packages from serious racers or builders.
However, in order to justify it I need information to be able to project pretty
concrete sales numbers that will result.
<Back to index
Lead Time
Lead-time is 5-10 working days depending upon exactly what
you want and other orders I may have pending. A deposit sent before you arrive
(if you are picking up your kit) or well before you would like to receive
it will ensure that I have everything ready for you, and then we can COD the
balance.
Shipping on fiberglass items via motor freight can take 5
or more working days, depending upon your location and distance from the nearest
major truck terminal.
<Back to index
Crating
For larger shipments and complete kits, I use a professional
crating service. You pay only what they charge me and when you receive your
shipment you will better appreciate the cost of professional crating, the
work that went into it, and the protection it provides.
Crating for body parts runs from $60 to $295 depending upon
the items ordered. Hoods and quarter panels may be shipped in reclaimed packaging
in order to save you the cost of custom crating. In this case the crating
or packaging charge reflects the time and expense required to obtain the packaging
and properly pack your order.
More information on crating
costs >
<Back to index
Shipping
Catalogs, books, and posters are mailed via US Postal Service
at "printed matter" rates, unless higher levels of service are indicated
on the price list and/or ordering info. Priority mail, second day, and next
day service are available at extra cost. I'm sorry that I cannot do COD on
small items unless you have a UPS or Fed Ex account and I can ship it to you
on your account.
Hardware items can usually either be shipped via USPS, UPS,
or FedEx Ground. Customers must pay for shipping and any expedited service
required. Charges for packaging may apply for certain bulky or hard to package
items.
Almost all fiberglass parts must be shipped motor freight
due to size restrictions with UPS, FedEx Ground, etc.
For least expensive shipping, you need a business
location with loading dock to receive your order. On shipments greater
than 100 pounds actual weight you will be charged extra if
you do not have a loading dock or a forklift; because the carrier will have
to use a liftgate truck. The carriers also charge extra for
inside delivery (that is, they have to bring it inside building)
or if it is delivered to a residence.
If you live outside a major metropolitan area, you may also
see "beyond charges." These can be shockingly high, and the
farther from the truck terminal you are the higher the charge.
If you live in a rural area, or if you do not have an appropriately
configured business receiving address, it may be better to instruct the carrier
to "hold at terminal". You can pick it up from
there in a pickup truck. If it's a large crate (like for a complete Velo Rossa
body kit), the terminal may allow you to (and may even assist you) unpack
the crate and load the parts piece-at-a-time. A six-pack of your favorite
beverage will go a long ways in getting assistance!
Prepaying your shipping will also help you avoid "freight
collect charges." In order for me to include shipping in your total,
I will need your:
I can ship your order "cash on delivery" (COD), if you have not yet
paid the remaining balance due. However, carrier COD charge of $100 (minimum
and may be more) will be applied to your total due.
Regardless of how your order is shipped and or the shipping and COD are paid,
someone must be at your shipping address to sign for the shipment, take delivery,
and pay freight or COD fees. If no one is there and the driver has to make a
second trip, the carrier will charge you more. I know this may be inconvenient,
but I do not have any control over it. That's the way the motorfreight world
works, unfortunately.
Please remember that shipping quotes take a lot of time to
put together and if you aren't ready to actually purchase the parts shipping
prices will have changed by the time you are ready. I can give you a rough
idea without doing a quote, but this estimate is subject to change based on
fuel costs, weather, and other costs beyond the control of the carrier.
You are welcome to arrange your own shipping if you have
access to an inexpensive service, or your company has a significant inbound
freight discount. However, please do so as early in the ordering process as
possible (I will provide you with dimensions and pickup address that you will
need) so that it leaves the dock quickly after it's crated. Once it's in the
box, it's a pain in the posterior to move out of the way every couple of hours!
The crating shop charges storage on any crates left on the dock more than
two days after they are ready to ship.
I make every effort to keep shipping cost to a minimum. However,
fiberglass items are bulky compared to typical motor freight. As such, the
shipping companies charge for what they call "dimensional
weight." That is, when the volume of your crate or large box
exceeds what they would normally expect of such an item, they charge based
on the volume that a occupies rather than actual weight. It's only fair since
light items displace heavier, more conventional, and more profitable freight.
To combat this problem, I have suffered many hours of brain
damage to discover the best ways to crate, protect, and nest parts so that
they occupy the smallest possible volume.
I have never had anything damaged in shipping. Having said
that, however, there's always a first time for everything! When you receive
your kit or parts, please look over the box or crate immediately; preferably
before you sign for it. If there is obvious damage to the packaging you need
to point this out to the driver and make him acknowledge it in writing. If
you don't feel completely comfortable accepting shipment with potential damage,
just refuse it and call me.
Damage claims usually have to be initiated from the shipper's
end. However, if you don't exercise your responsibility to catch it promptly
on your end and let me know, you could compromise my ability to help you.
<Back to index
International Shipping
I have not yet shipped any kits outside the continental United
States. However, I have several times done quotes for shipping outside
the U.S. and I would be happy to do so for you if need be. Please realize,
though, that such quotes are very time consuming and very much subject to
fluctuation depending upon fuel costs, and other factors. So, for the benefit
of both of us, make sure you are ready to purchase and have a definite idea
of when you want to receive shipment before you ask me to calculate a shipping
quote.
Also, there is no way for me to know what kind of customs
requirements and import taxes will need to be fulfilled at the country
of origin. Since presumably that is where you live, it would help me out tremendously
if you could investigate those requirements on your end and before I do a
shipping quote.
In the past, I have quoted motor freight to a U.S. port,
and ocean freight from the U.S. to the destination country. Motor freight
from the destination port to the final destination is possible, but adds considerably
to the cost. If it is at all possible for you to pick up your kit at the port,
I would recommend that.
Air freight is also a possibility for international
shipments, but usually at least doubles the cost of shipping. For individual
parts or even fender kits this is not too bad. However, because of the size
of complete body kits, air freight can be prohibitive.
I have spoken with several parties about becoming dealers
in Australia, Asia, and Europe. So far none have been serious enough to proceed,
but I welcome such inquiries. Shipping to a dealer in quantity is much less
expensive, since I can load up a whole container full of kits for the same
price as shipping two or three.
More information on international
shipping>
<Back to index
Payment
When I sold the business in 2002, I cancelled my credit
card processing account. Because of the paperwork required and the transaction
costs that have to be passed along to the customer, I have not yet decided
to reinstate that capability. Therefore, I currently accept only payment by
mail (or in person should you desire to pick your parts up locally). Personal
checks are fine, as are company checks and money orders.
I can also arrange for wire transfer.
If you are reluctant to mail money to a stranger, I completely
understand. You are welcome to post an inquiry to the Kitcar section at www.hybridz.org.
Many of the folks there have ordered parts from me and will give me a good
reference.
I have been in business more than a decade. You can't be
in business that long without having at least two or three people mad no matter
what you do to try to make things right. However, the vast majority of my
customers have been pleased with my products and my service, and I think you
will be, too!
I am also willing and able to accept payment via Paypal
(www.PayPal.com), as long as you are willing to bear the small additional
cost of such transactions. PayPal is a service that utilizes email addresses
to designate accounts.
Once you go through the simple sign-up procedure (https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_registration-run),
you can use your credit card to initiate a PayPal payment to me at john@reactionresearch.com.
At that point your transaction proceeds as simply as any other online credit
card transaction. I am a verified member in good standing with PayPal.
If you have questions about PayPal or need assistance, please
let me know via the email address below.
I can ship parts orders "Cash on Delivery,"
as long as I can receive a deposit up front that is large enough to cover
the cost of crating and shipping both ways should you change your mind when
the delivery truck is sitting in your driveway. Bear in mind that most shippers
charge a small additional amount ($50 or so) for COD fees.
Lay-a-way plans are acceptable as well. With at least 25%
up front, I can either fabricate your parts and hold them for you, or hold
the funds until you are ready to take delivery and pay off your order.
My address information is at the bottom of the FAQs.
<Back to index
Ganging customer shipments
If you and a friend want to purchase more than one kit at
at time, you can save substantially on crating and shipping cost by crating
them together. Alternatively, I can check to see if there are other prospective
customers in your area who would be willing to split shipping cost with you
and receive their kit at the same time. Sometimes the few hundred bucks this
saves is enough of an incentive to warrant an immediate purchase!
Why is it cheaper? If you've read Shipping,
above, you know about dimensional weight. I can nest two or more kits together
in a volume not much greater than one buy itself, effectively reducing the
cost of crating AND shipping per kit almost in half.
Back to top
Delivery to Shows or other gatherings
I have attended the Knott's Berry Farm kit car show at the
end of April every year for the last several. I have frequently brought kits
with me for customers who have purchased them in advance, and am willing to
do this at minimal cost (whatever extra it costs me to upgrade to the next
size truck, extra gas, etc.).
However, if you want to take advantage of this opportunity,
you need to let me know well before the show. It takes time to fabricate a
kit, and it takes time to make arrangements to transport it, to load it and
secure it properly, etc.
Please make sure you bring tie-downs, blankets, and an appropriate
vehicle (virtually any pickup will do).
I rarely attend other shows (like Carlisle) because of the
distance and expense involved. There just isn't enough money in this business
for me to justify it. However, under special circumstances I may consider
such a trip. If I need to go that way anyway, if I can arrange to deliver
a kit or two along the way, or if you and a friend want to take delivery of
two kits at one time, I'll work with you.
<Back to index
Shipping donor cars, turnkey cars, or partial turnkey
cars
Shipping a complete car is a tricky proposition. There are
transporters who will go coast to coast for around $1000, but I don't have
anyone I work with on a regular basis. However, I will be happy to investigate
to assist a serious buyer.
If the car you want to transport does not run, you can expect
to pay extra. In that circumstance, the driver has to reconfigure his load
so that he doesn't have to move your car until he gets to you, and so that
nothing is behind your car when he does. Plus, he has to have help to load
the car in the first place, and potentially to unload it.
You are welcome to pick up your car and transport it yourself.
I do not recommend planning to fly in and drive your car home. I wouldn't
do it...and I'm pretty good at roadside repairs. I've even fixed cars with
chewing gum wrappers!
If you want to pick up a donor car, etc., yourself, consider
renting a truck large enough to put the car inside. The rental companies don't
like to do this, but I have some local guys who will work with us.
<Back to index
Picking up your kit in Phoenix
You are welcome to pick up your kit or parts in Phoenix and
save substantially on crating and shipping. For a full kit (like the VR) you
will need at least a pick up truck. Bring moving blankets or old towels for
padding, and at least four motorcycle-type tiedown straps (ratcheting
or not).
I will help you load the kit properly and securely to minimize
risk of damage...but it will cost you lunch! Also, please realize that while
I do the best I can based on years of experience, there is still risk of damage
from transporting an uncrated kit in this manner. Drive carefully, stop frequently
to check the security of the load (give yourself a break while you are at
it), and set reasonable goals for travel time.
Whatever you do, please be as prepared as possible.
I've had customers show up with no tie down straps and ask to borrow mine
(want to bet on whether I got them back?), and even had people show up in
vehicles that needed repair before they could leave!
Also, if you are planning on "Cash and Carry,"
PLEASE make arrangements well in advance. The majority of the parts
I sell are made to order, when you order. That saves you the overhead
associated with keeping two of everything in inventory, rent for the space
required to keep them in stock, etc. I will be very happy to have everything
ready for you to pick up, if you will do me the courtesy of ordering in
advance and telling me EXACTLY what you want so it will meet your expectations.
My telepathy is getting a little rusty in my old age!
Just like with orders that I ship, a deposit is required
before I can build anything for you so that I don't have to be "out of
pocket" to my vendors, or stuck with something about which you changed
your mind on a whim. Yes, I can resell it. If you don't mind waiting until
I do so, I don't mind refunding your money (minus a very reasonable
restock fee) if your plans change.
For cash and carry (with emphasis on the "cash"),
please make sure you arrive with sufficient funds in your pocket. It
is much better if you go to the bank on the way to see me rather than having
me escort you there. It will also save you from having to buy me lunch for
my trouble:)
<Back to index
Wheels and Tires
The original sizes that I used to sell for the Velo Rossa
were 15x8 in the front and 15x10 in the back, both with 3-7/16 backspace (from
the hub seating surface of the wheel to the inner lip), 4x4.5 bolt pattern.I
also used to sell a wire wheel package that was 8” wide front and rear, with
the rear backspacing adjusted to about 2 inches to push the wheel out and
fill out the wheel well. These dimensions are pretty typical for rear-wheel-drive
applications, unlike the more modern FWD (front-wheel-drive) backspacings
of 4 inches and larger.
However, RWD wheels--particularly in the four-bolt patterns--are
scarce these days. Wheel manufacturers have abandoned the niche markets like
the Z and are focusing on the modern compact FWD cars. The 15x10 wheels are
pretty much not made any more, except for custom-built wheels…very expensive.
Ditto the wires. The previous owners of VR depleted my inventory of wires
and I can no longer get the parts to assemble the wire wheels.
What I’ve been recommending lately is hub
extenders. For $149/pair, I sell some that bolt onto your car and
allow you to use any modern front wheel drive, four-bolt wheel. They are a
lot less expensive than custom wheels. In fact, even considering the
cost of the hub extenders, the total cost is a lot less. Also, you are no
longer restricted to 15” diameter, and the number of wheel styles to choose
from is virtually unlimited.
The fronts are typically an inch thick, and the rears are
three inches. Those numbers allow for 8” front wheel drive wheels at both
ends of the car. If you are doing a V8 swap or some other high horsepower
application and need wider rear wheels, I can reduce the thickness of the
rear hub extender to accommodate. I just need to know the width and backspace
(not offset) of the wheel you intend to use. Backspace is the distance from
the hub-seating surface of the wheel to the inner lip of the wheel.
See photo
of hub extenders, click here>
I have heard of “wheel spacers” sold for a little less money.
However, I have never actually seen them and don’t know much about them. I’ve
had good success with my hub extenders, though, and would strongly recommend
them.
Yes, you may be able to custom order wire wheels and maybe
with real knock-offs, too. Trust me (I've put a lot of research into this
and will be happy to buy you lunch if you prove me wrong), they are a) VERY
expensive, and b) they are a pain in the posterior.
Prices run $300/wheel and up, depending on brand. The knock-offs
are heavy, complicated, add one more interface for eccentricity to show up
(which rears its ugly head as an "imbalance" you can't fix by balancing),
and you have to whang the heck out of the knock offs to get them loose, with
associated risk to the rim and the bodywork around it.
Trust me (I say for the second and final time) you will be
much better off in price, simplicity, and weight with hub extenders and inexpensive
wire (or whatever) wheels with a Honda bolt pattern that you can buy anywhere.
I strongly recommend that you NOT buy tires in advance.
Once your body work is in place and the suspension is finalized, take the
car, wheels, and hub extenders to a reputable tire shop that is willing to
work with you. Have them mount everything up, check for rubbing, etc. That
way if something doesn't work they can fix it. If you bought the wrong size
tire in advance and it takes you a year to put your car together after which
you discover they won't fit, whoever you bought them from is not going to
take them back or trade them in.
<Back to index
Badges
I do NOT sell Fe**ari badges or emblems, nor do I recommend
that you install them on anything you buy from me. I can't stop you from doing
it (neither than anyone else, provided you aren't mass producing badged vehicles),
but I also can't legally encourage or assist you in doing so.
I do provide Velo Rossa badges and decals at no cost to kit
purchasers who desire them.
<Back to index
Other Parts and Hardware...what you need to complete a
Velo Rossa
The Velo Rossa kit comes with all the fiberglass required
to completely reskin the car. It includes the hardware necessary to mount
and hinge the front bonnet. I designed the Velo Rossa to take advantage of
as many hardware items off your donor car as possible. Mechanically, you will
reuse most of the car, including the headlight buckets, door handles, the
entire drivetrain (unless you are doing a swap), all the interior pieces,
etc.
You can buy carpet kits and seat cover kits, but I find it
almost as cost effective to have these items redone by a local upholstery
shop. The added bonus is you can get them done just the way you like them.
The fiberglass is designed to accept generic hardware in
the areas where something other than from the donor is required. Examples
include the trunk hinges: I like Mazda RX-7 hatch hinges but there are a variety
of others that will work, since the holes are not predrilled in the fiberglass.
All these items can be obtained from the junkyard, the autoparts store, or
the hardware store. Suggestions and options for all these items are listed
in the installation manual.
Of course, there are many aftermarket and performance parts
available for the stock Z that will work just fine on a VR or any of our other
kits. These include suspension, brakes, engine parts, seats, etc. Links to
other suppliers are listed in the installation manual.
The only two items of hardware that you need to get from
me (if you want them) are the headlight covers and the driving lights.
I make both of these specifically to fit the Velo Rossa, and it would be difficult
to adapt parts from other cars to this application. See the Price
List to order.
Headlight cover trim rings are one of the items I eliminated
from the kit for cost reasons. I can still get them made but they are about
$600/pair. I can also get front grills made but they are about $1500 each.
Beyond those, you can save yourself a lot of money and enjoy
the benefits of customizing your car if you source hardware items yourself.
Of course, if you don't want to source the parts yourself,
I can supply anything referenced in the installation manual at the prices
listed there. If you want a quote on additional parts, please supply me with
exactly which parts you'd like and the selections within those (i.e., Mazda
hinges vs. Ford, etc.).
<Back to index
Dash Conversions. I offer two dash conversion
for the Z (some ZX customers have adapted them). You can see more information
on these dashes at
www.reactionresearch.com/dash.htm
<Back to index
Bumpers
The Velo Rossa is designed to run without bumpers, just like
the original GTO. The Daytona can be run "competition style" without
bumpers, or with the bumperettes like on the street Daytonas.
The other kits can be run with or without bumpers. Whether
it is legal to run a street car without bumpers in your locale is up to
you to determine. Generally, though, it's only an issue at time of registration
if/when you have to have the vehicle inspected. I've never seen a ticket
issued for lack of bumpers...not to say that you absolutely WON'T get one,
but I think it's a long shot. Most reasonable folks I know see bumpers as
being for the protection of YOUR vehicle. If you don't care, why should
they?
I do offer, but have yet to post to the website, fiberglass
bumpers in both 240 style and late 280 (1977-1978). I have plans to also
make molds for the early 280 (75-76) which I think look a little less clunky
than the late bumpers...though a lot of folks like them. If you are interested
in this option, please contact me via the information below and I will work
up a price for you.
<Back to index
Adjusting suspension ride height on a Z or Z-based
car.
Front Suspension
1. Sectioning the struts really is essential. This involves
cutting a section out of the body of the strut tube (usually about 1.5 inches)
and welding the tube back together. Without it you simply can't lower the
car enough without getting down to desired ride height and still have reasonable
suspension travel.
2. With shorter strut tubes, you have to run a shorter cartridge.
300ZX (third gen) shocks are not only shorter by about 1.5", but they
also have the same threaded piston rod (upper end) as the first gen cars.
Therefore, you can use them without modifying the strut insulator (top hat).
With the VW GTI struts (a common solution in the past) you have to drill out
the insulators to accommodate the larger piston rod. It can be a pain to do
so, plus it makes it more difficult to tighten or loosen the top nut. The
GTI piston has a round threaded section, whereas the Z has a "D"
shape that prevents the piston rod from rotating.
3. Coilovers are the way to go. I had some made locally but
it was a pain; so much so that I'd recommend Ground Control in spite of the
expense. I'd be interested to hear what others are using in this area. Coilovers
will give you adjustability in ride height that will help you trim out the
rake of the car just the way you want it. They will also allow for more clearance
to the inside of the wheels, allowing you to fit a wider wheel and tire under
the fender.
4. While you have everything apart, drop the cross member
and relocate the inner pivot point per the JTR Z V8 book. This will eliminate
the annoying bumpsteer that was built into the Z to help compensate for overly
soft suspension. What's bumpsteer? The annoying tendency of the car to follow
the ruts in the road or pull to the side of a bump if you only hit it on one
side. It's due to the tie-rod arm and control arm not being parallel. Re-locating
the pivot point will cure it.
If you have trouble visualizing why parallelism between these
two components is important, try this simple exercise. With your car sitting
on the ground and "rolled out" (roll it forward and backward a foot
or two so the suspension can settle, making the last roll forward to simulate
the car moving forward on the road) sight down the outer sides of the front
tires toward the rear tires. If your toe-in is properly set in the front,
you should be able to see a tiny bit of the back edge of the front tires.
This would be a slight toe-in. Hopefully, the steering wheel is straight up
and down when both front tires point in very slightly (a degree or so).
Now jack the car up and watch for the change in toe-in. This
simulates full "droop." You get an opposite change when the car
is bump loaded on one side like when running over an asymmetric (only on one
side of the car) bump.
5. Install "bump steer spacers." Why the quotes?
That's not really what they are, but it's what everyone calls them. They are
spacers that go between the bottom of the strut and the ball joint. What are
they really? "Camber curve correctors." My term. Copyrighted. Use
it and you have to pay me:)
In essence, when the suspension height is stock the ball
joint translates outboard with increasing bump load. This makes the camber
more negative, i.e., the top of the wheel leans more toward the center of
the car. The more negative the camber, the better the bite from the tire,
which is exactly what you want when you load that side (the side on the outside
of the turn).
As you apply increasing load to the suspension, the control
arm goes from a normal drooping (toward the outboard side), to horizontal
and eventually above horizontal. When this happens, the ball joint starts
coming back toward the centerline of the car, decreasing camber and causing
the front of the car to "wash out" (understeer) in hard corners
and especially under braking (which transfers more load toward that critical
outboard tire).
So, if you graph (I'm the self appointed king of analogies
and visual aids) the camber versus loading, you see the camber start out at
some negative value, go through zero (corresponding with horizontal control
arm position) and start to become positive again.
When driving a stock Z under normal conditions you'd never
get it loaded far enough to get the control arm significantly above horizontal.
However, when the car has been lowered the entire "camber curve"
from the above referenced graph is artificially shifted toward the positive
camber area.
That is to say the closer you start out to horizontal on
the control arm the easier it is to get into the wrong part of the curve.
Imagine that if you started out with the control arm exactly horizontal, it
would only take a minute amount of loading to start decreasing the camber.
The camber curve correcting spacers push the control arm
back to something more like a stock location, and therefore depress the camber
gain curve back into a more desirable region.
"How come I've never heard of this before, and why don't
the racers do this?" I've heard that question, too. The answer is that
most of them run such stiff springs and shocks that you don't have much movement
on the camber curve. In essence the camber becomes fixed. The downside is
loss of that all important suspension travel and its friend "ride quality."
In a racecar, neither is that important.
I have some really nice billet CCCs that I never properly
marketed. I sell them for $50/pair.
Another excellent question courtesy of Chris Larson: Do you
need to do both the inner pivot relocation AND the camber curve correctors?
Short answer: Yes. Long answer: The camber curve correctors move the ball
joint down, in turn moving the control arm down. Unfortunately, they also
move the outer tie rod end down which brings the tie rod down as well. This
preserves the undesired un-parallel relationship between the tie rod and the
control arm.
Here are some links to excellent discussions about this topic
(when page opens, select Ctrl-F "bump"):
http://www.mame.mu.oz.au/salman/Marc_suspension
http://www.zccc.org/Odometer/feb2000.htm
http://www.gfs1.com/racing/articles/suspension.html
http://www.ground-control.com/gcnisscat.htm
Rear Suspension. At the rear of the car, you
will not experience the same bump steer phenomenon, because there is no steering.
Technically, however, the camber curve displacement does occur. You normally
would not notice it, though, because Zs seem fairly insensitive to camber
change in the rear.
As for ride height, coilover suspension is the ideal way to
acheive desired height. However, you can get the car down quite a bit with
lowering springs (usually about 1 to 1.5 inches). If you are starting with
a 280 Z (75-78) you can gain another inch or so by swapping the "top
hats" or strut insulators at the top of the strut. On these cars they
are about an inch taller in the rear than in the front. You can also use parts
from front or rear of an earlier car (240), since they are the same as on
front of the 280s.
Also: Some parenthetical comments: While
you have everything apart, it's a good idea to do the suspension bushings.
The steering rack in particular can cause irritating mystery problems that
you won't figure out until you have a friend turn your steering wheel while
you watch the rack move back and forth 1/4 inch relative to its mounts...or
until you listen to me and just do it :wink:
You may as well change out the brakes at this time, too.
The JTR-suggested Toyota 4-piston conversion is a pretty good one. I think
I have one of those in a box here somewhere I'd make someone a deal on.
It's a little heavy compared to "real brakes."
I hate to admit it and many of you probably hate to hear it, but our good
friend at "the other Z place in Arizona" may have the best setup
for that. If you just can't stand him so badly that you wouldn't buy a $20
bill from him for $10, let me know. I may have some inroads to some alternate
sources, but don't have the time to invest in exploration without pretty promising
prospects of selling some.
Be very conscious of the bottom of your car. There should
be nothing hanging out below the "frame rails." This becomes even
more critical with decreasing ground clearance (duh), but you'd be surprised
how many aftermarket headers dump out an inch below the frame rails. I call
these headers "speed bump feelers." Make sure whoever does your
exhaust work from that point back understands the concept as well. This is
especially important with V8 cars.
Not only will this stuff drag, scrape off that pretty JetHot
coating, and tear up the exhaust, it will also loosen your exhaust manifold
studs (or break them) and potentially ruin the gaskets. Also, I have had much
better luck with graphite gaskets than anything else. They are a lot more
expensive than paper, but it's a relative thing...relative to how CHEAP the
paper stuff is.
<Back to index
Contact Info
Because of the turmoil of having sold the business, having
taken it back, and all the associated logistics and management challenges
of repairing the damage, rebuilding infrastructure, etc., my time is very
limited. Please have patience if you e-mail me and I don't get back to you
for a day or two. I won't blow you off on purpose!
E-mail is the BEST way to contact me.
For WRITTEN CORRESPONDENCE ONLY, use the address at the end
of the Payment section.
However, PLEASE read the information that I have provided
for you on this website. It has represents a lot of work and effort, and there
is nothing more irritating than receiving an email from someone who doesn't
feel they have the time to read it, but somehow I have time to repeat it to
them in a personal email. I know...YOU would never do this...but you wouldn't
believe how many folks would!
If the information isn't here or you can't find it (for some
reason other than you just didn't look for it...in which case I will buy YOU
lunch when you come to town:), then fire up the old email and ask away! If
your questions are extremely detailed in nature, I suggest you obtain the
Velo Rossa Installation Manual (it contains information pertinant to ALL my
kits).
When you send me an email, please include:
I am now routing all my mail through an Earthlink email address
to take advantage of their spam filtering. I get hundreds of spam messages every
week and I almost can't delete it fast enough. However, spam filters sometimes
make mistakes. If you email me and weeks go by without a response, your email
address may have been inadvertently blacklisted. Please try again. I'm normally
very good about responding to emails.
